Le Vostre Bici In Titanio Qui
- Creatore Discussione eventhepopesmokesdope
- Data di inizio
eheheh.... non importa, grazietanto... non do retta
la kcnc è ottima come funzionamento, peso e prezzo.
Le alternative ricadono in quel vizio "mitologico" a cui accennavo prima... le ho valutate, e ho scelto questa.
Tralasciando le guarniture in carbonio (ho avuto una brutta esperienza con FSA K-force light) la KCNC è parecchio leggera per essere in alluminio, quindi non deve essere molto rigida... Non dico altro in quanto non ne ho mai provata una, magari mi sbaglio. La preferisco comunque alle varie Aerozine, CTK,ecc. che sono solo cinesate e non condivido la bussola per il cambio lunghezza.
Io ad esempio uso XTR 970.
Su questa bici ci avrei visto bene qualcosa di esclusivo ad es una hollowgram (ma forse non è bb30...), Tune, ecc.
Comunque la bici mi piace un sacco... ancora complimenti!
Visto che stiamo parlando di titanio e non siamo d'accordo sulle guarniture meglio che ci prendiamo questo.. (Skyde in titanio. 1650euro!!!)
Allegati
La deus è sempre piaciuta anche a me. Adesso costa anche poco... Peccato per il peso.
al di là del "rosario di cifre" presentato :)) la trovo semplicemente brutta...sarà che a me i tubi sella integrati non sono mai andati giù (e la tendenza attuale anche sul corsa sembrano darmi ragione dopo la moda iniziale...).
Effettivamente, peso a parte che non so se sia reale, il tubo sella integrato non piace molto neanche a me (...sono uno dei pochi ad avere un Paduano con reggisella tradizionale). Probabilmente in questo telaio è stata una scelta obbligata vista la curvatura del piantone. Lo schiacciamento dell'orizzontale lo trovo bello esteticamante. Il resto non mi entusiasma.
il piantone l'hanno fatto curvato perchè altrimenti il daregliatore ant toccava contro la ruota e avere un carro corto
http://www.merlincycles.co.uk/Bike+...ames/Rock+Lobster+Team+Titanium+Frame_696.htm non sarà pregiato, ma magari a qualcuno a quella cifra può interessare
Diciamo a " qualcuna " visto che è un 15".
Comunque a quel prezzo ( raggruppando più persone ) si riesce a farsi fare un telaio su misura e garantito a vita da Xi'an in Cina.
Io sto provando, insieme ad altri, a fare gruppo per farmi fare una front long travel.
Posto a beneficio di tutti (o almeno lo spero....) una bella descrizione delle modalità con le quali Darren Crisp svolge il proprio lavoro.....se vi va di leggervi il resto tutto andate su:
www.velocipedesalon.com sezione "smoked out" sezione "darren crisp".
Buona lettura!
Premessa....Darren risponde ad un utente in merito alle caratteristiche delle due tipologie di saldatura (passata singola o doppia passata...che ultimamente fa lui).
Hi Joel,
You're PR check is in the mail, thanks! :)
Seriously though, thanks for the questions and for your kind words. The subject of welding can get pretty deep into the specifics, but I'll simplify my view of these two processes so as to not bore you.
When I started building with ti in 2001 I was using a single pass. This type of construction typically calls for a larger diameter welding rod. When the tubes are mitered and fitted, ready for the weld, the operator passes with a (proportionally) high amount of heat (amperage) to get the rod to melt onto the work. Depending on the technique used (specific to bike frames) it is usually the rod/weldment that is the providing the dominant fusion between the tubes. With a two-pass method, the "root" pass (no welding rod) actually makes certain the the mitered tubes are "fused" together; allowing a sure joining of the tubes as the miters have to be tight and perfect. Any air/gaps will result in blown holes and insufficient material to fuse the tubes together.
Some quick characteristics of the two styles:
Single-Pass:
•Quicker
•Hotter
•Less precision needed for mitered tubes
•Less probability of contamination
Double-Pass:
•Better fusion/penetration characteristics
•Better weld flow/smoother finish
•Lower heat
•Easier to sequence welds
There are some other differences between the two styles, but these are the ones that I consider the most important, especially to my fabrication procedure. Like I said, I started out with one-pass. But as time wore on, I realized that I preferred making a complete root pass which allowed me to sequence my welding as I pleased. This was helpful with my alignment protocol. With one pass, you get one shot to get the frame "into" alignment, otherwise you're cold-setting to a finish-welded frame. Once the root pass is on the frame and it is aligned, it is pretty difficult to take it out of alignment when laying the second pass. Doing this allows me to work out the sequencing and alignment in the root pass, then concentrate on the "perty" welds with the dress pass which also serves to add material and strength to the frame.
When I was welding with only one pass, I didn't like the noticable start/stop areas which were dictated by my sequence. There are fabricators who prefer to do the 1-pass method and some do it really well. I just prefer to take the extra time (you're actually doubling your welding time), keep the heat low, and have better control of the outcome.
If you look at some of the higher production frames, they are almost always one-pass welds. This is evident by the larger weld bead and less refined/smoother finish of the weld. This allows for quicker production and lower labor costs.
I'm glad you're enjoying the project. I'll have some more pics for you tomorrow. I appreciate the trust you've put in me and my product and for the kind words. It has been just as enjoyable for me to be able to collaborate with you on your new frame and I can't wait to get it in your hands.
best,
darren
www.velocipedesalon.com sezione "smoked out" sezione "darren crisp".
Buona lettura!
Premessa....Darren risponde ad un utente in merito alle caratteristiche delle due tipologie di saldatura (passata singola o doppia passata...che ultimamente fa lui).
Hi Joel,
You're PR check is in the mail, thanks! :)
Seriously though, thanks for the questions and for your kind words. The subject of welding can get pretty deep into the specifics, but I'll simplify my view of these two processes so as to not bore you.
When I started building with ti in 2001 I was using a single pass. This type of construction typically calls for a larger diameter welding rod. When the tubes are mitered and fitted, ready for the weld, the operator passes with a (proportionally) high amount of heat (amperage) to get the rod to melt onto the work. Depending on the technique used (specific to bike frames) it is usually the rod/weldment that is the providing the dominant fusion between the tubes. With a two-pass method, the "root" pass (no welding rod) actually makes certain the the mitered tubes are "fused" together; allowing a sure joining of the tubes as the miters have to be tight and perfect. Any air/gaps will result in blown holes and insufficient material to fuse the tubes together.
Some quick characteristics of the two styles:
Single-Pass:
•Quicker
•Hotter
•Less precision needed for mitered tubes
•Less probability of contamination
Double-Pass:
•Better fusion/penetration characteristics
•Better weld flow/smoother finish
•Lower heat
•Easier to sequence welds
There are some other differences between the two styles, but these are the ones that I consider the most important, especially to my fabrication procedure. Like I said, I started out with one-pass. But as time wore on, I realized that I preferred making a complete root pass which allowed me to sequence my welding as I pleased. This was helpful with my alignment protocol. With one pass, you get one shot to get the frame "into" alignment, otherwise you're cold-setting to a finish-welded frame. Once the root pass is on the frame and it is aligned, it is pretty difficult to take it out of alignment when laying the second pass. Doing this allows me to work out the sequencing and alignment in the root pass, then concentrate on the "perty" welds with the dress pass which also serves to add material and strength to the frame.
When I was welding with only one pass, I didn't like the noticable start/stop areas which were dictated by my sequence. There are fabricators who prefer to do the 1-pass method and some do it really well. I just prefer to take the extra time (you're actually doubling your welding time), keep the heat low, and have better control of the outcome.
If you look at some of the higher production frames, they are almost always one-pass welds. This is evident by the larger weld bead and less refined/smoother finish of the weld. This allows for quicker production and lower labor costs.
I'm glad you're enjoying the project. I'll have some more pics for you tomorrow. I appreciate the trust you've put in me and my product and for the kind words. It has been just as enjoyable for me to be able to collaborate with you on your new frame and I can't wait to get it in your hands.
best,
darren
Una bella 29" in ti....non è mia ma vorrei tanto lo fosse.....il produttore si chiama Firefly....è nuovo solo il nome in quanto i proprietari sono ex di Indipendent Fabrication....quando la ditta si è spostata loro sono rimasti e, a giudicare dai risultati...han fatto bene!
Enjoy
Enjoy
Allegati
..che spettacolo...quei forcellini poi sono delle opere d'arte !!!
Grazie per la segnalazione del Forum dove Darren ha fornito quella bellissima spiegazione....non lo conoscevo e mi sono affrettato ad iscrivermi !
Un piacere....diciamo che ho cercato di rendere un pò più pepato l'argomento.....quando vedo saldature del genere rimango letteralmente rapito...certo il merito va anche al fotografo che ha saputo valorizzare la grande mano di chi ci sta sotto.